Fibonacci Landscapes
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Garden & Landscape Design

A garden either works with the site or fights it. On the Central Coast that means dealing with sandy coastal soil in some areas and heavier clay in others, salt-laden wind near the water, and long dry stretches broken by heavy rain. Plants chosen for the conditions establish faster, need less intervention and still look right in three years.

A garden is what pulls the hardscaping together into a finished property. We design and install garden beds, paths and planting that suit your site's sun exposure and soil, so the space reads as one cohesive design rather than separate projects.

  • Cohesive design across the whole property
  • Garden bed design and edging
  • Paths and stepping stone layouts
  • Ties hardscaping and planting together
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Garden pathway with stepping stones and native planting

Soil is where a garden is won or lost

Coastal sand drains fast and holds almost nothing; clay holds water and suffocates roots. Most sites here are one or the other, or both in different corners. We assess what is actually there and improve it before planting, because putting good plants into unimproved ground is the most common reason a new garden looks tired within a season.

Planting for coastal conditions

Salt wind, full sun and sandy ground rule out a lot of what looks good in a nursery. Natives and coastal-tolerant species handle it with far less work, and a well-chosen planting scheme still gives structure, colour and screening without needing constant replacement. Where a garden is sheltered we have more range, and it is worth using it deliberately rather than planting the same palette everywhere.

Drainage, levels and mulch

Garden beds need to shed water the same way paving does, particularly where they sit against a house or a retaining wall. We set bed levels so water moves away from structures, and mulch properly to hold moisture, suppress weeds and moderate soil temperature. Mulch depth and type both matter more than people expect.

How the garden meets everything else

Most of our garden work sits alongside paving, walls or a pool surround, and the edges between them are what make the result look designed. Edging, bed shapes, the transition from lawn to paving and where planting softens a hard structure are all decided at the same time as the construction, not afterwards.

Garden & Landscape Design, answered.

What plants work best near the water?

Coastal-tolerant natives handle salt wind and sandy soil with the least intervention, and there is far more range in them than people expect. The right selection depends on how exposed your site is, which we assess rather than guess.

Do you do maintenance after the garden is built?

Our work is landscape construction rather than ongoing garden maintenance. We set gardens up so they need as little intervention as possible, and we are happy to explain what the first year needs while things establish.

Can you improve drainage in a wet part of the yard?

Usually yes. Persistent wet areas are normally a levels or drainage problem rather than a planting problem, and the fix is regrading, a drainage line, or both. Planting into a wet spot without addressing the cause just kills the plants more slowly.

Do you install irrigation?

We can plan garden beds around irrigation and it is worth deciding early, because retrofitting lines into finished beds means disturbing established planting and mulch.

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